Tips, Tricks and Suggestions
Everybody has their own way of building a layout. This will be my 5th and second in Sn3. It's been 15 years since the last layout and a lot has changed. I'm hoping to try some of the different products and tricks that have been developed over the last 10+ years but at the same time I want to get up and running ASAP. Below are some of my tips, tricks, and suggestions that I have discovered during the building of the D.R. & N. in the last few months.
With the addition of DCC to the hobby, block wiring and large central control panels are intended to be a things of the past. Not everything is perfect not even DCC so with that in mind I'm still installing blocks in the sections of the railroad that contains large amounts of sidings and switches. This will allow trouble shooting in a section if the need arises. As for a central control panel the railroad will only have small local ones as needed mounted in the fascia.
The hidden yards and tracks that have switches within them are all controlled by "Tortoise Switch Machines" mounted directly next to each switch. By mounting them above the bench work and next to the switch it provides better direct control and contact from the machine to the switches. Operating switches and route lighting will again be mounted in the fascia.
The remaining switches around the layout will all be managed by a New Rail Models, “Blue Point” MANUAL, switch controllers cabled to the fascia and a Harp Switch stand attached to the switch throw on the surface.
The towns and buildings will all feature lights both inside and out. Pole lamps will also be set and used as the scenery is applied. Interior lights will be straight 12v bulbs, while smaller shaded or pole lights will be 1.5v attached to power reducers as needed. All the building and effect lighting is ran by a separate transformer from the switches and DCC.
One problem for any modeler when it comes to wiring is locating a hole in the decking, during and/or after construction. With this layout I have installed a 1.5" long, 1/4 inch diameter pieces of fish tank air hose thru each hole in the decking drilled for wires. The hose is held in place by hot glue around its base and is marked underneath by glow in the dark paint.
This may sound like overkill but all layouts grow and change over time. Hunting for empty holes under the layout or drilling new ones all come at a price. This added feature saves time feeding new wires and avoids errors in drilling up thru a section of track.
Adding local control panels takes time as well. Once the fascia is in place it becomes even more of a headache for adding or changing them. As with the air hose trick I have found use blank household electrical plates have became very handy. They come in two standard sizes, single and double, but can also be found in single sectionals that you assemble as needed. They come in several colors and can be painted as well. Switches and lights are added by drilling a holes as needed. They can be assembled on your workbench and installed at anytime on any flat fascia surfaces and some broad curved surfaces. If need arrises to change a local panel, remove the old and install a new one.
There's more to Come but till then,
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